Friday, February 22, 2008

Our First Stop-Tortola and Treasure Island

Pelicans sitting in a tree.















Sunset at the end of the day.














Treasure Island and our catamaran.







Alan waving hello.





Day Four

Here it was day four already. We woke up to a partly cloudy sky but the temperature was going to be a perfect 81 degrees. We decided to have breakfast up on the Lido Deck. We enjoyed omelets, waffles with berries and juice. We enjoyed all the choices there were and it was a lot quicker than eating in the dining room.

The craft for the day was Iris Folding and I found it to be a lot of fun! We made cards and I now know what I can do with all the Christmas leftover scraps of wrapping paper. I look forward to learning how to do more patterns. There is going to be another day we do Iris folding and it will be using the shiny paper that is thicker. It’s said to give even a different affect. There was only one class this day since we were docked and a lot of our crafty people would be on shore.

During the approach to Tortola we sailed through the Sir Francis Drake Channel, passing many of the islands of the Virgin Islands group. This group comprises a large number of small islands, only few of which are large enough to support habitation. With the notable exception of Anegada they are mainly volcanic in origin and mountainous in nature. Tortola has powdery white-sand beaches, lush green mountains, and a sheltered yacht-filled harbor characteristic of Tortola where the past of the West Indies meets the present of the BVI. The largest island in the chain, Tortola offers a variety of exciting vacation possibilities. Wander through centuries-old ruins such as the Dungeon, Fort George, Fort Recovery, the Mount Healthy Windmill, and Callwood’s Rum Distillery, which is still in operation, and explore Tortola’s history at the BVI Folk Museum in Road Town. The people of Tortola are friendly and known for their warmth and hospitality. There are a wide variety of places to stay, ranging from campgrounds to luxury resorts and private villas. Tortola is also an ideal point from which to explore the other British Virgin Islands. Regular ferries, private and crewed yachts, and planes travel daily to the other islands of the BVI.

Here’s a little background about Tortola. The Spanish aristocracy was not overly interested in the Virgin Islands-there was no gold and most early explorers sought riches to fund their voyages. Pirates figured out that hidden coves and complex reef systems amounted to a maritime spider’s web-perfect for snagging passing ships.

Modern Tortola, with 13,000 residents, is the largest and most populous island in the British Virgin Islands archipelago (only 17,000 people live in the island group!) The hilly south coast is blanketed with frangipani and fragrant ginger. The north is characterized by inviting white sandy beaches, many of which are sheltered from ocean currents by coral reefs or cover formations. In the northern interior, mango and banana groves thrive. Road Town is the main town and capital of 12-by-3 mile island. With 3,200 residents, it is a subdued but sophisticated community. West Indian charm is reflected in the capital’s colorful wood and stone buildings and several colonial buildings have been restored as quaint shops along Main Street.

Just outside Road Town, scenic Ridge Road leads up to Fort Hill, past some of the island’s charming smaller villages, such as Long Trench and Fahie Hill. Tortola’s narrow and twisting roads follow what were once dirt donkey tracks (they were also footpaths). One must pay close attention to traffic-some visitors find it hard to remember that BVI drivers stay to the left! The summit at Sky World offers excellent views, but continue to Sage Mountain National park, one of Tortola’s natural treasures. 1,716-foot Mount Sage is the highest point in the BVI. Trails offer panoramic views of neighboring Peter, Salt, Cooper and Ginger islands to the south and Jost Van Dyke and Sandy Cay to the north.

The ruin of Dutch-built Fort Recovery is another interesting Tortola sight. Dutch settlers, who landed at Soper’s Hole in 1648, are believed to have built its standing stone tower. Josiah’s Bay is perfect for picnickers or sunbathers, while nearby Brewer’s Bay is good for swimming. Cane Garden Bay, closer to Road Town, is one of the most popular beaches in Tortola.

Road Town, neither as crowded, nor quite as commercial as the nearby St. Thomas capital (USVI), it is the administrative capital of the British Virgin Islands. Road Town life centers around Wickham’s Cay, where the harbor is full of expensive yachts from all around the world. Main Street, parallel to Waterfront Drive, forms an ‘s’ along the base of Russell Hill and most visitors find their way along it sooner or later.

The British Virgin Islands are popular among sailors, not only because of their natural beauty, but also because of the archipelago’s many small-secluded islands and islets. If one forgot to bring their own yacht, several chartering agencies offer services, and a BVI Tourist Board office is located right on the pier to assist you with directions and maps.

Sage Mountain, towering 1,716 feet above Tortola, is the highest peak in the Virgin Islands. A twisting drive leads to a parking area on the slope and from there, a trail leas to the summit. The tail traverses Sage Mountain National Park, the island’s last remaining rain forest ecosystem and it is this habitat that provided the impetus for the park’s creation. Bird and plant lovers will enjoy this park for the abundance of unusual species that thrive within it’s boundaries and the views of Drake Channel are magnificent. If one should decide to hike, it’s advisable to wear sturdy non-skid shoes and check with a knowledgeable guide before setting out and never hike alone!

Fort Recovery. In the 17th century, not only British colonists, but Dutch and French settlers took and interest in the archipelago. Remnants of this period include the ruins of Fort Recovery, a Dutch battlement built to guard against possible invasion from neighboring Frenchman’s Cay. The stone tower is thought to be the result of efforts by the Dutch settlers, who arrived at Soper’s Hole in 1648. A small luxury hotel composed of individual villas has been built around the fortress. Not far away, at Carrot Bay, the North Shore Shell Museum is a fascinating place to visit if you are interested in seashells and local culture. The varied collection of shells may surprise you—especially if you collect shells.

In addition to Tortola, there are more than 50 other islands, rocks, an crags in the BVI chain. Most are fairly small and uninhabited, but as Tortola residents like to boast, this only means that the British Virgin Islands paradise remain unspoiled by tourism. The islands are blessed with consistently fine weather and while there are five-star resorts, overall development is limited. Coconut trees are the tallest objects-territorial law prohibits buildings more than two stories tall.

Virgin Gorda: It is not difficult to locate the second largest and second most populous of the 50 or so islands, islets, crags, and rocks that make up the BVI. Just follow the gorgeous Sir Francis Drake Passage from Road Town and it leads right past Spanish Town, the island’s second largest town. The ferry landing and the airport are both ear Spanish Town, but the largest town is The Valley. Outside the two communities, many roads are still unpaved. Two interesting crags off the southern end, Fallen Jerusalem and Broken Jerusalem, are landmarks. One of the most popular attractions in the BVI is the natural stretch of coast on Virgin Gorda, romantically known as The Baths. The boulders strewn along the southern coast are believed to have been hurled from a prehistoric volcano. Those that came to rest on the beach at the southwestern end of Virgin Gorda are haphazardly arranged as though a race of giants playing a game of marbles had been suddenly called away. The pools are grottoes formed by the great rocks offer excellent swimming and snorkeling opportunities. There is a parking area at the site where taxis can drop visitors off. A long trail leads down to the water-navigation has been made a little easier with steps and a series of rope railings although visitors are still urged to walk with care. The Mad Dog Restaurant at the trailhead is a long-standing Baths tradition. A gauntlet of clothing and souvenir shacks line the path as far as the Top of the Baths (a second restaurant). There is a small refreshment and souvenir stand on the beach. The paths in the preserve are uneven dirt trails.

A famous sometime resident of the BVI owns a small island off the northeastern shore of Virgin Gorda. Tiny Necker Island is the private property of British airline and record industry magnate Richard Branson. His lavish villa is sometimes leased.

Jost Van Dyke is known for its rustic isolation and slow pace. Visitors and residents can enjoy conversation and music at beach cafes, a lifestyle that can easily become habitual. Jost Van Dyke’s friendly atmosphere and pristine environment attracts nature lovers and offers a taste of the British Virgin Islands “as they once were”.

Anegada, the archipelago’s most remote and second-largest island, rises only 27 feet above sea level. Its flat 15-square mile mass of coral and limestone is ringed by deceptive coral reefs. More than 200 ships have wrecked in these shoals. Anegada is a favorite among divers and fishing enthusiasts. It is also home to the endangered rock iguana, which can grow to five feet long. Flamingos, ospreys, herons, and terns thrive in the island’s 1,100-acre bird sanctuary.

Peter Island is the essence of true paradise. The privately owned island resort is accessible only by water. Peter Island sports no less than five miles of secluded beaches and one of the most exclusive resorts. Available activities include tennis, sailing, and diving.

Norman Island, also known as Treasure Island, was the model for Robert Lewis Stevenson’s epic novel Treasure Island. More than any other island chain, Norman Island is also redolent with pirate history. Cattle farmers replace the pirates, but the island proved difficult for the operations, so it is now uninhabited. The island’s marine caves are among the popular attractions in the region. Norman Island is near the international boundary line separating the British and US Virgin Islands.

During the colonial era, pirates found plenty of ‘business’ in the BVI. Infamous rogues like ‘Blackbeard’, ‘Bluebeard’, and Sir Francis Drake were residents. Following abolition, farming and fishing created a new economy, but in the 1960s, Lawrence Rockefeller established ‘Little Dix Resort’ on Virgin Gorda and Charlie Cary recognizing tourist potential developed a marina on Tortola. Growth was controlled but tourism became an economic mainstay.

Historical Dates
1500BC Arawak and Ciboney tribes settle in the Caribbean
1000AD Caribs drive northward from the Orinoco Basin
1493 Columbus discovers and names the Virgin Islands for St Ursula and the 11,000 virgins
1499 Amerigo Vespucci charts the coast of Guiana and the Amazon river
1644 Triangle of trade begins
1648 Dutch settlers at Soper’s Hole
1655 Danish planters occupy St.Thomas Jamaica becomes a British colony
1666 British planters colonize the BVI, supplanting the original Dutch settlers
1672 BVI colonists annex in Tortola
1715 Balckbeard establishes a base at Soper’s Hole
1759 William Thornton, designer of the US Capitol Building, is born on Jost Van Dyke. He is among the first to free his slaves.
1762 British forces occupy several Caribbean islands, including Cuba
1774 House of Assembly meets in Road Town. Official BVI birth date
1801 British forces occupy the Danish West Indies
1808 Britain abolishes slave trade
1834 Emancipation Proclamation
1872 BVI British colony
1950 First electricity in BVI
1999 Road harbor Cruise Ship Terminal is completed

Our travel guide, Chris, held a presentation, ‘Caribbean Through the Lens’ and took people through a visual celebration of the Caribbean through his own photography. The eye-popping presentation was sure to inspire you to take along your camera wherever you went on the cruise. His easy to follow tips gave you some pointers as to how to improve the memories that you would capture on your vacation.

There was also a self-guided art tour where guests could stroll about the ship and see art valued at over $2million. An iPod was available to be your personal guide and learn more about the amazing collection.

One nice feature for those who enjoy playing games was the Community Bulletin Board. If you wanted to meet fellow guests with similar interests you could simply sign your name at the Explorations Café with your interest and stateroom number and look for fellow guests on the list with similar interests. It was a great way to have fun and make new friends. I didn’t really have time to check this out plus Alan is usually my game partner, maybe on our next Holland America cruise.

There was also a ‘Behind the Scenes Backstage Tour’ to show how showstoppers at sea were presented. You could get the inside story from the cast and technicians as they took you backstage. Since this happened while we were on our shore excursion we missed out on this.

We took a Sailaway Catamaran Tour when we got to Tortola where we went to Treasure Island, yes, the same as in the books and movies. We left at 2:50 and returned around 6:00pm. Our guide’s name was Dennis and he told me to tell all the young ladies that he’s employed and is a good guy. The name of the boat was Ppalu and was quite comfortable inside. Alan even snorkeled to the huge cave on the island. There was a large flock of pelicans that I had fun photographing as they dived into the water. When they were through they all flew to a nearby tree to sit and watch all the tourists. We had a brief stop at the island and I picked up a couple of small seashells off the beach. Alan enjoyed several glasses of rum punch while I stuck to good old water. After everyone was back on the catamaran the captain took us to a private little spot where we could get off and walk around the beach. I tried to find some seashells but they were very slim pickings. Since I didn’t go snorkeling I did go into the water for a refreshing dip. When I came out I found Alan at the beach pub and to my surprise he had ordered a rum and coke served in a pail. That’s right, it was served in one of those kid’s plastic beach pails and he spent $20 on it! I couldn’t believe it! Here he had brought his own bottle of rum so he wouldn’t have to buy any and he ends up buying one for $20 and then tipping the guide on the catamaran $20. Needless to say, Alan got pretty drunk and for the remainder of the cruise didn’t drink much rum after that. Sailing back to Tortola was so beautiful with the sun setting. I got some great shots!

We got back in time for me to attend the first night of Hanukkah and it was really interesting.
By the time we returned to the ship we had missed dinner in the dining room so we opted to eat at the pool where a big BBQ was being held. We had BBQ’ed chicken, ribs, corn on the cob, and potato salad. We then had a nice bowl of ice cream for dessert. There was also live music to enjoy during dinner. Unlimited fresh pineapple pina coladas were only $15 but neither of us wanted one that night. There were a lot of people and it was a little hard finding a table but we did. After dinner all Alan wanted to do was go to bed so we went back to our cabin and didn’t go to the Filipino Crew Show. The show was a presentation of modern and traditional entertainment from Philippines. The late night comedy act was given by Michael Ziegfeld and was strictly for adults only. Wonder if it was risqué. Anyway, since we made it an early evening it gave me time to download all the wonderful pictures I’d taken during the day and transfer them onto CD’s.

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